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Panipat: Remains of a battlefield

Arjun Kumar,  26 February 2010, 09:18 PM IST

The word ‘Panipat’ when mentioned to a reasonably history-savvy audience immediately brings to mind images of a burning battlefield. The clashing of swords, the agony of the dead and the wounded, the pride of the victors and the collapse of those defeated are all evoked. Also evoked is an ‘If only’ emotion which manifests itself in different ways to people: ‘If only Babar did not have artillery!’, ‘If only the Maratha commander had not fallen when he did!’ If only, If only.


 


In the absence of these fascinating ‘if only’ phenomenon taking place, India’s destiny changed several times at Panipat. Babar routed the Lodis here in 1526 to establish the Mughals in India. Some years later, his grandson fought the most decisive battle of his field to defeat Hemu and ensure that the Mughals would not become another footnote in Indian history but a lasting power. In 1761, Maratha ambitions of establishing Hindu supremacy in India came to an abrupt end in a battle against the Afghan Ahmad Shah Abdali.


 


If a person were to travel to Panipat expecting it to be overflowing with heritage remains, he would be bitterly disappointed. Time has not been kind to the place. The fact that the place lies on the direct route to Delhi – the very reason for the battles having been fought there – has changed the character of the town. Today, its lifeline is not heritage but the massive flow of traffic passing on the national highway that cuts through it.



 


However, if the traveler were to spend a little time to delve deeper into the town, walking through its dusty lanes and past uncovered drains, he would come upon some remains that few people have set eyes upon. First among Panipat’s heritage sites is undoubtedly the Babari Masjid. Standing in a green patch and accessible via narrow alleyways, this mosque – and not the one at the disputed site in Ayodhya - is the one built by Babar in thanksgiving for his victory. The mosque originally stood in a garden called Kabuli Bagh. The garden has disappeared, leaving behind a green patch in its memory.



 


Memories are not the preserve of the victors alone but also of those that lost out. The tomb of Ibrahim Lodi, who lost both his kingdom and his life in the battle, lies in a small park in a lane off the highway. The tomb is unusual in the sense that the king’s grave is built on an elevated platform exposed under an open sky with no building around it. Large tombs, it seems, were not given to fallen opponents in those days.



 


On a slip road leading to Sanauli in Uttar Pradesh is a large, tree-lined park. Birds abound and their chatter fills the air every morning and evening. It’s a great place to come for a picnic and enjoy the warmth of the sun on a winter day. Things were considerably different though, a couple of centuries ago, with the Afghans and Marathas locked in savage combat at this very site. The fall of Sadashiv Rao Bhau, the Maratha commander, paved the way for a Maratha defeat. The spot where he fell is believed to have been marked by a black mango tree – called ‘Kala Aam’ locally. The Battles of Panipat Society – an organization active locally – has erected an obelisk to mark the spot. The park’s peace is an oddity to a historian. But then this is a town that is known more for its ‘Panchranga’ pickle that for the battles it once witnessed.


 


Getting there: Panipat is 90 kms north of Delhi on national highway 1. To reach the mosque, ask for Kabuli Bagh; for the park en route to Sanauli ask for ‘Kala Aam’ park. Ibrahim Lodi’s tomb is obscure but ask for directions once at the mosque which is nearby.


 


 

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Amit Deshpande says:

February 26,2010 at 10:10 PM IST

Nice one. Mention of more than one place, absolutely encourages people to make a visit to the sites.

Would it be possible for you to get one important observation clarified?
When we read history none of the Kings or Emperors have a singular name e.g, Akbar Badshah, Chandragupta Maurya, Emperor Ashok etc; etc;

Why has the history recorded Raja Vikramaditya Hemraj as Hemu? Was it a victorious 16 yr old Badshah Jalaluddin who named his opponent as Hemu?
History is written by the victors. So are we following history written by the Mughals as they saw it? Or is Raja Hemu altogether different from Raja Vikramaditya Hemraj?

If he is indeed Raja Vikramaditya Hemraj, then we are doing a disservice to the legacy of a valiant King.

(Reply to Amit Deshpande)- Arjun Kumar says:

February 27,2010 at 08:52 AM IST

Amit: Yes, History is indeed is written by the victors. In the case of Hemu, what often happens is that he tends to be treated as an upstart. The 'Vikramaditya' seems to historians to be a title too grand for him - of course had he been Emperor for a period of time, they would have treated him differently.
One interesting thing is that I once wrote an article on Narnaul and in response got a call from an elderly gentleman who claimed to be a direct descendant of Hemu and he had documents to back up his claim. I went through the documents but there was no clue on their antiquity or originality - they could have been manufactured too. But more on that later.

(Reply to Arjun Kumar)- Amit Deshpande says:

February 27,2010 at 02:02 PM IST

Thanks for your reply. Raja Hem Chandra - Samrat Hem Chandra Vikramaditya as Wikipedia records it - has clearly not been given his due by our history.
He was nurtured by a Muslim ruler, rose through the ranks from a vendor of saltpetre to be the Emperor succeeding the Suri Dynasty and drove the mughals out in their biggest defeat in India, yet if calling him Vikramaditya seems wrong for historians, then it seems incorrect.
Even if he is called Raja Hemraj or Raja Hemchandra in independent India, it would still be worthwhile.
Anyways, thats unlikely to happen. Thanks again for your reply. And yes there cannot be a way to verify the descendants of the great King.

(Reply to Arjun Kumar)- sudhirb says:

March 01,2010 at 10:42 PM IST

One major reason for non-recognition of Hemu in history seems to be his background of a commoner. He was a 'professional' in the regimes of Sher Shah Suri, Islam Shah and then Adil Shah doing all types of jobs. It is just that jobs were of being a Prime Minister, Chief of Army, handling food supplies to army etc. etc. In nutshell his objective was to create a Hindu empire in India, throwing out the mughal invaders out of country. If earning wealth or owning a small kingdom was his objective, he also could have compromised with the then rulers/Akbar.
There is a mention of a genocide of Hemu's community by Akbar's forces. Thousands of persons were beheaded and minaretts were built of them to terrorise the people so that they do not oppose the mughal rule again. So Hemu has no large community to ask for his recognition, though awareness about him is growing now, especially after film 'Jodha-Akbar'.

 

sudhirb says:

March 01,2010 at 10:15 PM IST

Hemu or Hem Chandra Vikramaditya is a forgotten and discarted Hindu King of medieval times. Unfortunately, in free india also he is not given any recognition. A page on wikipedia gives his achievments along with several references from reputed historians. If he has really won 22 battles from Panjab to Bengal and has defeated Akbar's forces at Agra and Delhi before establishing 'Hindu Raj' in North India as a Vikramaditya king, he definitely deserves more respect and recognition by Govt. of India. In fact Delhi has a road named after every foreign 'invader',like Babur, Humanyun, Akbar, Aurangzeb etc. irrespective of what they did to 'Bhartiya Sanskriti', its people, temples etc.,
but the great Hindu warrior 'Hemu' who sacrificed his life for saving 'Bhartiya Sanskriti' and establishing 'Hindu Raj' in India is not considered worthwhile by the Indian Govt. This only reflects the pseudo-secularism of the Govt.
Hemu was a secular king. He had lead a combined Hindu and Afghan army, and had carried forward a tradition of secularism initiated by Sher Shah Suri,one of the most successful rulers of medieval period in North India.

Panipat Museum Society has also neglected Hemu. The society has raised a memorial at Kala Amb in Panipat of 'First Battle of Panipat', in which both the participants were foreigners. There is no memorial for native king Hemu, who fought against foreign king Akbar. This rarely happens in a free country.

 

Amit Deshpande says:

March 05,2010 at 05:32 PM IST

Raja Hemu was the prime minister for Sher Shah Suri, Islam Shah and Adil Shah Suri. These were Afghan kings and their forces were considered natives. Hindus and Afghans were considered native Bharatiyas and were fighting against the Mughal invaders. Raja Hemu, son of a priest who was prosecuted by the islamists - hence broke the caste barrier and switched to trading - rose from selling salt to the Suri Dynasties army to being commander and then prime minister. Adil Shah Suri's ascent to throne was opposed by some Afghan rulers and they rebelled against him. At that time Hemchandra, Prime minister of Adil Shah Suri was in Bengal. He started from there and reached Punjab winning 22 battles in the way and even overthrew Mughals from Delhi. He had almost all of his courtiers as muslims and was secular to the T.
Hemchandra was Sindhi and Akbar, the secular Great's forces carried atrocities to make sindhis accept islam or flee, if not die. Hence most of Sindhi community much like the Kashmiri's - who settled in Mewar and we now know them as Marwari's - had to lose land & agriculture as their job and had to turn to trading as an occupation.
Indian history textbooks are more a followers of foreign legacy than being a reflection of history.

 

Pinakin says:

March 05,2010 at 11:20 PM IST

Nice article. It is good to read these things and more important it should be known by the present generation. Very little people know about Native history.

 

sudhirb says:

March 06,2010 at 05:38 PM IST

Panipat has some more interesting heritage sites, which you have not listed here. One is a Complex at village Saundhapur, on Panipat-Jind road some 5 KMs from NH1. At this site first Babur had camped in 1526 before Ist Battle of Panipat and then Akbar-Bairam Khan had put up their camp in 1556 before 2nd Battle of Panipat. The core of camp site, in some 15 acres consisted of a Pond lined/constructed with Lakhori bricks, a small mosque. While mosque is still in good condition, the water body is encroached upon and is in bad shape. Another structure in the complex is a Cenotaph (Chattri) also called 'Khanka' in Persian constructed in the memory of the beheaded hindu king 'Hemu' or Hem Chandra Vikramaditya after he got killed in the second battle of Panipat. This Cenotaph constructed in Afghan and Hindu architecture is also now under encroachment by some local people.

With Haryana Govt., Heritage is a hated word. Different period Heritage, like Vedic (10,000 years old) Pre Harrapan or should we call Indus Civilisation, Mahabharat period, and of later period all is languishing and getting destroyed slowly throughout the state.

You mentioned 'Panipat Wars Memorial Society'. It is a high powered committee chaired by Governor of Haryana and has representatives from Haryana Govt. and INTACH too. But somehow this museum also could not become popular. It is located in a old Rest House in a remote area, not well connected. It has more displays of Babur and Akbar than Hemu, a local Haryanvi and Marhattas, the native warriors.

Till State Govt. does not have proper legislations to safeguard its Heritage and involve State beauraucracy in Heritage care, future remains bleek for Haryana State Heritage.

 

Vasant Moharir says:

March 12,2010 at 09:28 PM IST

Thanks to the author for reminding the significance of Panipat battles in Indian history. Is it not possible for GOI or Haryana to erect monuments like the Waterloo Monuments outside Brussels? Like Waterloo, Panipat changed not only the history but also religous composition, culture and life styles. This will also promote tourism, both national as well as international.

 

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ABOUT ARJUN KUMAR More
Arjun Kumar is a management postgraduate by training, a brand manager by profession and a heritage explorer by natural inclination. That odd mix translates itself into journeys that are meticulously researched for months before he actually sets out. Pre-Independence gazettes, 19th-century maps, forgotten corners of libraries and bits of conversation are pieced together painstakingly. The results show - with him reaching heritage sites that are as stunning as they are obscure. A member of the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) and a diehard Louis L'amour fan, Arjun has just one prayer to his maker: Yol Bolsun - May there be a road.
 
ABOUT HIDDEN HERITAGE More
There is a lot more to India’s heritage than the Taj, Khajuraho and a handful of other world heritage sites that most tourists – domestic or from abroad – make a beeline for. “Hidden Heritage” talks about examples of built heritage in India that would leave a person amazed and, at times, awestruck. The author hopes readers will, for once, get off the beaten path and take the road less travelled, literally so in this case.
 
The views expressed in Hidden Heritage are the author´s own.
 
 
 
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